interlink Garden Rail System

Customers Comments: The individuals below contacted one another to assist each other in the lay of SM32 track using the Interlink Garden Rail System.

From Malcolm H Warrington
I am finding them extremely useful I haven't used them exclusively as certain areas have leant them selves to alternative means but for installing across a rockery they are excellent as you have a secure flexible mounting regardless of whether the planted area moves. I have mounted them on Block paving bricks mounted on a mortar bed on hard core (probably over the top) I have used the mesh method you advocate for the ballast and have achieved an extremely solid level track and have been able to incline the track on corners by the use of washers under the mountings.

From Mike P: West Sussex
My own method is still emerging. It seems to me that one Fleximount per yard is ok until there is a change in the curvature of the track, such as going from a five foot radius to a straight. At such points another Fleximount is needed. Another problem I have quickly encountered is the dog-legs which appear at the track joins. David's solution is to solder the track, Robyn's is to add extra Fleximounts or Ballast Anchors. However, the track joining plate featured in your web pages would seem to be the simplest solution to this problem. I have "mocked up" a track joining plate out of plywood and the resultant curves showed no signs of dog-legs or kinks. Do you have any of these for sale yet?
Please keep me informed of developments.

Joseph M.
Mystic USA
My 2nd order - just installed 1st batch. Works well with stone dust as "ballast"

From Jim H: Nottingham
I have just layed around 40 foot of track using fleximounts only. I used Peco SM32 narrow gauge flexitrack. The way that I did it was to drill one hole in each bit of track on the first sleeper ie one Fleximount per yard. The first piece of track was laid attached to a fleximount and flexed to the curve radius required. The inner rail was then cut off to be parallel with the outer. I then positioned the second piece of track where I wanted it (with the fleximount attached to a brick and to the track). This was then attached to the first via rail joiners.

Now the important bit (I made a mistake here resulting in a gradually sloping track). I used a one metre ruler and placed it on each of the two fleximounts or on the rails just above the fleximount (the ruler was turned on its end to get a straight edge) I then used a spirit level to make sure the fleximounts were level. DO NOT!! use the track to find the right level the track does flex and is not accurate until you put the ballast down. Also use a spirit level to check the cant (the level of the rails in relation to each other) make sure that it is neutral or very slightly canted in. The Fleximounts will hold the required bend in the track on their own. When ballasting go along the track with a spirit level and check for any twists and to make sure that the track is level.

From David P: Cardiff
For most of this I used two anchors per length of track at the curves are all sharp. I adjusted the track length before fitting, as it was difficult to cut in situ. I soldered a second length of track to the first before fitting the first. I then marked and drilled holes to fix the 2nd. I continued like this. I found it necessary to solder the joints when the are straight to avoid kinks. The anchors, at present are attached to old breeze blocks, bricks, stones or concrete as appropriate. There is also a fair amount of concrete just to keep things in place.

From Robyn M S: Norfolk
I followed Ron's suggestions on spacing so that I think I allowed about a length or maybe just under of Peco SM32 inter spaced with 2 ballast anchors. Yes you will need more to go around bends or you'll end up with sudden curves and straight sections to say nothing of some cambers! I found that pre-bending helped a lot especially as you'll find that the outer track will be longer and need trimming off and you'll have to snip away some of the plastic, incidentally you can snip off the thin bits and push the sleepers back on, other wise you'll have some bigger gaps in the sleepers!

How are you going to retain the ballast? I used Alpine Grit (available from Garden Entrees) and retained it with a l____l sort of shape of 4mm galvanised mesh available from same source. Screw it down (assuming you are using a baseboard) with non-rust screws and brass screw cups, then mount the fleximounts on top. Have a spare piece of 4mm mesh to use as a sieve as some of the Alpine Grit is too small (my wife uses the residue in the rockery (a bizarre use for dedicated Garden Railway stuff but there you go!).

Ian K. Devon

Dear Ron (March 2005)
Please find attached order per our conversation this afternoon. All track laid so far has been very successful. Please find enclosed cheque.
Yours Sincerely

(This is Ian's 3rd order for his G Scale garden layout).

Fleximounts used on the Stephen Alliss layout 'Rly' (Staffordshire). Using Peco SM32 Track.

M.H. Sussex

I'm attaching a few photos which you are welcome to use .The problem I experienced in the July drought concerned the lawn edging which was initially hammered into damp ground during the winter, but which started to lift and shift generally as the ground dried out. The remedy seems to be to go round the track perimeter with a watering can in dry weather (we have a hose-ban!). The ballast also dropped in a few places but In the main there were been no major problems.

Ron iGRS . This layout appeals to me, I like the crisp and simple design, it looks like it can easily be taken up with little disruption to the gardens appearance. I would like to know how the trains cross the path. This layout was achieved using only 25 Fleximounts